叁个爱尔兰小队在GavinBate的携吐血将于二〇一〇年青春从东北坡攀爬珠峰。假若此次攀爬成功，小组成员Kinch 和Taylor 将成为攀援珠穆朗玛峰的最青春的爱尔兰人。为了早为之所本次珠穆朗玛峰攀缘，Kinch 和Taylor在二〇〇五年6月到四月各自攀爬了3个陆上的3座山峰。他们曾经攀完山勃朗峰和乞力马扎罗，并在十月二十三日前去阿根廷攀援阿空加瓜山。
是因为那么些队的人头很少，所以他们的左右逢源极大。他们将用Gorak Shep (起源于一九五二年的军基)作为自已的大本营并在邻峰实行他们的风土壤化学安排，举个例子：Pokalde, Island Peak and Lobuje。
Maxut and Vassily’s goal: The two tallest peaks for 2007澳门新萄京客户端下载：即将从中国侧沿西北山脊再次冲顶K2，爱尔兰一登山队将于2008年春天从东南坡攀登珠峰。
Maxut and Vassily are fresh from a bold ascent on Everest. The two climbers were the first non-SHERPA climbers to reach the summit this season. They topped-out without O2, and reportedly refused to sip gas during their Descent, in spite of having spent over 48 hours in the death zone. Should they summit K2 it would become their 12th 8000er.
Zhumayev and Pivtsov are familiar with K2 as well. In 2005 they attempted the Abruzzi Spur together with two other team mates. Pushing for the summit in stormy conditions, they reached over 8000 meters before turning back. They went up for a second attempt, but by then the mountain was deserted, and their climbing gear was stolen from C1.
On the way to China
［1］Ueli Steck, speed-soloingalpinist, died on April 30th, aged 40.
冰川也是高居持续的移位中，比屋企还要大的冰川悬挂在攀峰者的头上，随时都会掉下来。冰川往往位于17,500 到19,500 英尺之间。
The current NW Ridge Expedition left Almaty yesterday for Bishkek. Then they’ll move to China by road. Also in the team are a group of Kazakh National team members, coached by Ervand Iljinsky: Serguey Brodsky, Andrew Puchinin, Aggey Skopin, Malik Ismetov, and Alexander Sofrygin.
Maxut Zhumayev and Vassily Pivtsov still have Lhotse, K2 and Manaslu left to climb of all the 14, 8000ers.
哈萨克Stan合作 马克斯ut Zhumayev 及 Vassiliy Pivtsovffice
［2］THE most terrifying thing that happened to Ueli Steck was not the moment anavalanchecaught him onAnnapurna, the tenth-highest mountain in the world, and almost knocked him off. Nor was it the time when—perhaps because, on the same mountain, a rock hit hishelmet—he found himself in an instant 300 metres below,concussedandbruisedall over. Each event caused him towonderwhether he liked risky climbing too much. But as one of the best alpinists of hisgeneration, and often the fastest, he did not wonder long.
北京时间4月30日下午5点30分登顶珠峰的哈萨克Stan队员马克斯ut Zhumayev及Vassiliy Pivtsov，成为二零一六年第一对无氧、无合作登上顶峰珠穆朗玛峰的通力合营，今年她俩随行的是二〇〇七南非喜玛拉雅珠穆朗玛峰探险队。停止前段时间，马克斯ut和Vassiliy已经成功无氧、无合作实现14座八英里级山峰中的11座，除洛子峰、K2、马纳斯鲁峰。在成功登顶珠峰后，马克斯ut和Vassiliy便熬更守夜地去攀援世界第二山顶K2。
营地III - 23,700 英尺(7200米)
helmet：头盔; 钢盔; 盔形物，盔状物
营地IV - 26,300 英尺 (8000米)
马克斯ut和Vassiliy隶属于哈萨克Stan江山海军登山队。Maxut Zhumayev，一九八零年5月1日落地；Vassiliy Pivtsov，一九七三年6月五日诞生。
[例句]He donned work clothes and a wicker helmet.
顶峰-29,028 英尺 (8848 米)
[例句]I had only bruised my knee.
原文：Irish Everest Expedition 2008
A small Irish team made up of Graham Kinch (a 29 year old telecoms strategist) and Ian Taylor (a 29 year old leisure centre assistant general manager), under the guidance of Gavin Bate will attempt Everest via the South East ridge in the spring of 2008. If either Kinch or Taylor are sUCCessful they will become the youngest Irish male to summit.
In preparation for their Everest Expedition, Kinch and Taylor are climbing 3 other mountains on 3 continents between June 2007 and their April 4th departure for Kathmandu. They have already completed Mt Blanc and Kilimanjaro and shall head off to Argentina on December 27th to attempt Aconcagua via the Polish glacier. The year long project is in aid of the Kitandwe school project. A school they have chosen to build in their sponsored village in Uganda in partnership with the Irish charity Fields of Life.
Due to the small size of the Everest team they have far greater flexibility in their approach. They will be deviating from convention by using Gorak Shep (the original Hillary 1953 base camp) as their base camp and will carry out their acclimatisation on neighbouring peaks such as Pokalde, Island Peak and Lobuje.
［3］No, the mostfrighteningepisodeoccurred in April 2013, when he found himself under attack by a crowd of rock-throwingsherpasat Base Camp II onEverest. That was the moment he thought he might die, a thought he had not had before. The sherpas were angry because, as they fixed the safety ropes above the camp, he andtwo others had ignored the rule to keep the mountain clear of climbers and had come up past them. He had no wish to bedisrespectful. But since he made no use of safety ropes, why shouldn’t he go up?
Everest from the South Side in NEPAl
frightening：吓人; 令人望而生畏的; 引起蓦地危急的
Base Camp - 17,500 feet (5350 meters)
[例句]It was a very frightening experience and they were very courageous.
This is a picture of the popular South Col Route up Mt. Everest. Base camp is loCATed at 17,500 feet. This is where climbers begin their true trip up the mountain. This is also where support staff often remain to monitor the expeditions and provide medical assistance when necessary. Many organizations offer hiking trips which just go to base camp as the trip is not technically chAllenging (though you must be very fit).
From base camp, climbers typically train and acclimate (permitting the body to adjust to the decreased oxygen in the air) by traveling and bringing supplies back and forth through the often treacherous Khumbu Icefall. This training and recuperation continues throughout the climb, with the final summit push often being the only time to climbers do not go back and forth between camps to train, bring supplies, and recuperate for the next push.
episode：插曲; 一集; 片段; 一段经历;
The Icefall is in constant motion. It contains enormous ice seracs, often larger than houses, which dangle precariously over the climbers heads, threatening to fall at any moment without warning, as the climbers cross endless crevasses and listen to continuous ice creaking below. This often acts as a testing ground to judge if less experienced climbers will be capable of continuing. The Icefall is located between 17,500 and 19,500 feet.
[例句]This episode is bound to be a deep embarrassment for Washington
Camp I - 5900 meters
After the Icefall, the climbers arrive at Camp I, which is located at 19,500 feet. Depending on the type of expedition, Camp I will either be stocked by the climbers as they ascend and descend the Icefall, or by SHERPAs in advance.
Sherpas：夏尔巴人（湖南的叁个种族）( Sherpa的名词复数 )
The area between Camp I and Camp II is known as the Western Cwm. As the climbers reach Camp II at 21,000 feet, they may be temporarily out of sight of their support at Base camp. Nonetheless, modern communication devises permit the parties to stay in contact.
[例句]This time the party took porters from Hunza instead of Sherpas from Nepal.
Camp II - 6500 meters
As the climbers leave Camp II, they travel towards the Lhotse face (Lhotse is a 27,920 foot mountain bordering Everest). The Lhotse face is a steep, shiny icy wall. Though not technically extremely difficult, one misstep or slip could mean a climber‘s life. Indeed, many climbers have lost their lives through such mishaps.
Camp III - 23,700 feet (7200 meters)
To reach Camp III, climbers must negotiate the Lhotse Face. Climbing a sheer wall of ice demands skill, strength and stamina. It is so steep and treacherous that many Sherpas move directly from Camp II to Camp IV on the South Col, refusing to stay on the Lhotse Face.
Camp IV - 26,300 feet (8000 meters)
［4］Hehad a problem withpeople on mountains. Off the slopes he could begregariousand funny; on them, he became sointenselyfocused that he could not bear distraction. He climbed light, with just fourcarabiners, anice-pick,cramponson his boots, acoiledrope forrappellingon descents, and his own-brandtitaniumSwissArmy knife with a large file andbolt headwrench. To rely on any moregearwas onlyhalf-doingthe climb. He went up cleanly, leaving only his footprints.Supplementaryoxygen hescornedas “false air” and “bottled doping”; he never used it.
As you’re leaving C4…it‘s a little bit of a down slope, with the uphill side to the left. There are typically snow on the ledges to walk down on, interspersed with rock, along with some fixed rope. The problem with the rope is that the anchors are bad, and there’s not much holding the rope and a fall could be serious. Fortunately it‘s not too steep, but there is a ton of exposure and people are usually tired when walking down from camp. The rock is a little down sloping to the right as well, and with crampons on, it can be bit tricky with any kind of wind. There’s a little short slope on reliable snow which leads to the top of the Geneva Spur, and the wind pressure gradient across the spur can increase there as you‘re getting set up for the rappel. Wearing an oxygen mask here can create some footing issues during the rappel, because it’s impossible to see over the mask and down to the feet. For that reason, some people choose to leave Camp 4 without gas, as it‘s eASIer to keep moving down the Spur when it’s important to see all the small rock steps and where the old feet are going. Navigating down through all of the spaghetti of fixed ropes is a bit of a challenge, especially with mush for brains at that point. One lands on some lower ledges which aren‘t so steep, where fixed ropes through here are solid. At this point, it’s just a matter of staying upright, and usually, the wind has died significantly after dropping off the Spur. The route turns hard to the left onto the snowfield that leads to the top of the Yellow Bands.
have a problem with sth：分裂意，反对，在某地点有繁多不便或主题材料
Camp IV, which is at 26,300 on the Lhotse face, is typically the climbers‘ first overnight stay in the Death Zone. The Death Zone is above 26,000 feet. Though there is nothing magical about that altitude, it is at this altitude that most human bodies lose all ability to acclimate. Accordingly, the body slowly begins to deteriorate and die - thus, the name “Death Zone.” The longer a climber stays at this altitude, the more likely illness (HACE - high altitude cerebral edema - or HAPE - high altitude pulmonary edema) or death will occur. Most climbers will use oxygen to climb and sleep at this altitude and above. Generally, Sherpas refuse to sleep on the Lhotse face and will travel to either Camp II or Camp IV.
Camp IV is located at 26,300 feet. This is the final major camp for the summit push. It is at this point that the climbers make their final preparations. It is also a haven for worn-out climbers on their exhausting Descent from summit attempts (both successful and not). Sherpas or other climbers will often wait here with supplies and hot tea for returning climbers.
[例句]She is such a gregarious and outgoing person.
From Camp IV, climbers will push through the Balcony, at 27,500 feet, to the Hillary Step at 28,800 feet. The Hillary Step, an over 70 foot rock step, is named after Sir. Edmond Hillary, who in 1953, along with Tenzing Norgay, became the first people to summit Everest. The Hillary Step, which is climbed with fixed ropes, often becomes a bottleneck as only one climber can climb at a time. Though the Hillary Step would not be difficult at sea level for experienced climbers, at Everest’s altitude, it is considered the most technically challenging aspect of the climb.
Summit - 29,028 feet (8848 meters)
Once the climbers ascend the Hillary Step, they slowly and laboriously proceed to the summit at 29,028 feet. The summit sits at the top of the world. Though not the closest place to the sun due to the earth‘s curve, it is the highest peak on earth. Due to the decreased air pressure, the summit contains less than one third the oxygen as at sea level. If dropped off on the summit directly from sea level (impossible in reality), a person would die within minutes. Typically, climbers achieving the great summit will take pictures, gain their composure, briefly enjoy the view, then return to Camp IV as quickly as possible. The risk of staying at the summit and the exhaustion from achieving the summit is too great to permit climbers to fully enjoy the great accomplishment at that moment.
As most readers of this page know, the return trip can be even more dangerous than the climb to the summit
crampons：鞋底钉，铁钩，攀缘用鞋底钉( crampon的名词复数 )
[例句]Using "evolved" techniques for crampons and tools.
coil：盘绕; 卷成一圈;绕成盘状; 卷绕成圈
[例句]Tod shook his head angrily and slung the coil of rope over his shoulder